Six years ago I spent a summer in Washington DC. I shared a tiny one-room apartment with three other girls. One of them, Jessie, ended up becoming a good friend of mine, and after I went back to Denmark, we kept in contact (social media, I love you!).
Last weekend Jessie and I finally got a chance to meet again. She was in Copenhagen for a conference with her work, and when the conference ended, she stayed two more days, visiting me at Nørrebro. Yay!
I had decided to show Jessie all of my favorite places in Copenhagen, so she didn’t leave and only had seen the conference area and the touristy places downtown. I thought I wanted to share some of the places here, because all of them are worth a visit. Some of them I’ve mentioned at Guide to Copenhagen before and some are new favorites.
1. Kølsters Tolv Haner
We meet Friday afternoon and started out with a beer at my favorite beer bar in Copenhagen – Kølsters Tolv Haner. They serve organic beer and during summer time they have an amazing outdoor area. Sitting there with a beer looking at people is seriously a good way of getting to know Copenhagen, if you ask me!
The Film Critic Guy and I was planning to take Jessie to Spise/Bar Nr. 20 for dinner, but we had forgotten to book a table. So when they were totally full, we had to come up with a Plan B.
Our Plan B ended up being almost better than our Plan A, because we ended up having dinner at Oysters & Grill – one of my favorite restaurants in Copenhagen. However, we had to wait 30 minutes for our table, so we took a short walk to BRUS, a brewery and bar that had opened a week earlier. They brew their own beer, and the place is definitely worth a visit as well.
3. Oysters & Grill
But – back to Oysters & Grill. That place is SO cosy, with decorations inside that look like a mixture of a Spanish restaurant in the 70s and a small cottage in the mountains. You can pick and mix your favorite seafood as a starter, and then you can choose between seafood or steaks for the main course. It’s delicious!
The next day I took Jessie for breakfast at GRØD. GRØD is quite a hyped porridge café in Copenhagen, but all the tourist guides are right, because this is always a good option. GRØD has four porridge bars now (Lasse who started it is really cool, and it’s so well deserved that they are doing so good), but my favorite will forever be the one in Jægersborggade. It’s great for both breakfast and people watching.
Before walking downtown Jessie and I did a small stop at CMYK, a small art shop in Jægersborggade. CMYK sells prints from up-coming Danish painters. I have several pictures from their shop on my walls, and when Jessie told me that she wanted a souvenir from Copenhagen, I thought it was a great option (and so did she, since she ended up buying a picture).
After our little shopping session we continued downtown. I went for the greenest walk possible, so we passed both Assistens Kirkegården, the lakes and Kongens Have before we ended up in Nyhavn.
Now, I have to tell you. Nyhavn and I are not the best friends. I mean, I love the cute colorful houses. And I do see why so many people find it charming. But in my opinion, it doesn’t get more touristy than that. I mean, if you only visit Copenhagen once, I totally understand that Nyhavn is cool to have on your check list. But I know so many Swedes who come to Copenhagen once a year and always end up eating smørrebrød and drinking beer in Nyhavn. And that’s sad. Because Copenhagen is so much more than that.
6. The “Netto” boats
So. Even if Nyhavn and I aren’t the best friends, Nyhavn was where we were heading. Because in Nyhavn you can jump on a “Netto”-boat. The Netto-boats are small blue boats showing you lots of important places in Copenhagen from a small canal tour. You can bring a coffee or a beer if you want, and then you get to see the whole town from the water, listening to a guide telling you about different places. It only costs 40 DKK (but that is only if you take the blue boats though!) and is my preferred way to show friends all of Copenhagen’s different buildings and other “must see”-places.
7. Torvehallerne (the savory stands)
After an hour on the boat both Jessie and I were starving, so we headed to Torvehallerne (the food market). They have plenty of options, but I love the duck sandwich at Ma Poule, so I convinced Jessie to share one with me. Out of all the deliciousness that Torvehallerne holds, that’s the best place I know. I mean, that sandwich! It’s just the best.
8. Torvehallerne (the sweet stands)
Earlier Jessie had asked me about the most Danish food I know, and my top three are
1) smørrebrød (open faced sandwiches)
2) a traditional Danish hot dog and
3) “flødeboller” – which are small cream buns
Or as Jessie described the flødeboller – “a marshmallow covered in chocolate”. I guess both expressions work. No matter what you call it you can buy it in Torvehallerne, so I bought two at Summerbird, so Jessie could try one. When in Copenhagen…
9. Mikkeller & Friends
After a long day out we headed back to the apartment. We had dinner home, but ended the day with a beer at Mikkeller & Friends, which are almost next door to our apartment. Mikkeller & Friends has over 40 types of beer, so there are definitely something for every taste.
10. Meyers Bageri
Jessie had a plane to catch Sunday morning, so to get the most out of the weekend together our alarm clocks rang at 7 AM. Jessie had a goal of eating one piece of Danish pastry a day, and I had told her that she had to try a cinnamon twist from Meyers’ before leaving for the US. Luckily Meyers’ in Jægersborggade opens at 7 AM, so I went for a small morning walk and bought bread and cinnamon twists. The perfect ending of a great weekend!
Here is a small list with addresses to all the places we visited:
Kølsters Tolv Haner, Rantzausgade 56, Nørrebro
BRUS, Guldbergsgade 49, Nørrebro
Oysters & Grill, Sjællandsgade 1B, Nørrebro
GRØD, Jægersborggade 50, Nørrebr0
CMYK, Jægersborggade 51, Nørrebro
Netto-bådene, Nyhavn, downtown Copenhagen
Torvehallerne, Frederiksborggade 21, downtown Copenhagen
Mikkeller & Friends, Stefansgade 35, Nørrebro
Meyer’s Bageri, Jægersborggade 9, Nørrebro